Your first gender-affirming haircut is often one of the initial steps for many individuals in realizing the person they've always envisioned. For myself, cutting my hair as I entered high school brought immense joy. I despised my long hair; I had no desire to maintain it or invest any care into it. I begged for a short haircut, one similar to the styles worn by other boys in my school. However, I soon realized that my hair didn't resemble theirs; it lacked the flatness or the cool waves. It became apparent to me that I was unfamiliar with things such as durags, wave brushing techniques, barbershop terminology, or even what a fade was. So, here's my journey though all the haircuts in my life and hopefully this can serve as a guide for those who are in similar boats.
Understanding your face structure
Before you reach for the clippers, take a moment to look in the mirror. Surprisingly, your facial structure can provide some guidance on which haircuts might suit you best. Of course, you have the freedom to cut your hair however you please—it's your head, after all. However, I recall the regret I felt after cutting my hair into styles that didn't quite fit my head shape. According to The Good Barbers blog, here's a guide on how to measure your head:
Measure your forehead in a horizontal manner, halfway between your hairline and eyebrows
Measure the area between the highest points of cheekbones that is below the outer corner of the eyes.
Now, lay the flexible tape straight with no bent or curve below the ear (where the jaw starts) and measure towards the tips of the chin at one side of the face. Then multiply the calculation by 2 to measure the whole jaw.
Measure the face length vertically from the center of your hairline to the tip of the chin
Here's a video from YouTube for my visual readers:
Now we got the measurements out the way, we can focus on which one is yours.
Source Pinterest
As illustrated in the image above, there are seven distinct face shapes, and now that you've have identified your specific face shape, we're a step closer bring you to your perfect haircut. Based on my online research, here are some recommended hairstyles for black trans men or black transmasculine individuals based on different face shapes:
Round-
Round head shapes present a unique challenge when it comes to selecting haircuts. It's important to avoid styles that adds to the roundness of your face. Instead, opt for hairstyles with sharp lines or angles to create definition. Short haircuts, curls, medium afros, or waves are excellent choices for individuals with round face shapes. These styles can help balance out the roundness and add structure to your overall look.
Long-
Similar to round head shapes, it's essential to choose haircuts for long head shapes that don't elongate the face further. Avoid styles such as high top fades and long beards, as they can visually lengthen the face. Instead, opt for textured hairstyles with medium hair length. These styles help balance the proportions of the face without adding excessive length. Additionally, long face shapes often share characteristics with other face shapes, such as long diamond or long heart shapes. Identifying which face shape your long face resembles can further guide you in selecting the perfect haircut. By understanding your face's unique features, you can choose hairstyles that enhance your appearance and complement your facial structure.
Oval-
Oval face shapes are the most common and versatile. They offer the flexibility to experiment with various hairstyles. You can confidently choose almost any hairstyle you like with an oval face shape. However, I would suggest avoiding hairstyles that fall over your face, as they can potentially make your face appear more rounded. Opting for styles that showcase your facial features without covering them can help maintain the balanced proportions of your oval face shape.
Square-
Having a square face shape typically means that your facial measurements are nearly equal, resulting in a broad appearance. To avoid accentuating this width, it's best to steer clear of hairstyles that can add to it. Styles such as afros and longer hair can further emphasize the squareness of your face. Instead, opt for haircuts like fades, low cuts, or buzzcuts. These shorter styles help to reduce the profile of your face, making it appear more aesthetically balanced. By choosing hairstyles that complement your square face shape, you can achieve a more harmonious and flattering look.
Heart-
Having a heart-shaped face, your primary aim with your hairstyles should be to create the illusion of a wider chin. Hairstyles such as short curls, long braids, or even loc-ing your hair would complement this face structure excellently. Additionally, a short beard or a five o'clock shadow can help enhance definition in your chin area. It's advisable to steer clear of hairstyles that are too heavy or add height to your head, particularly those with a middle part.
Diamond-
For a diamond face shape, your main objective is to elongate the forehead and widen the jawline. Opting for hairstyles such as a full afro, locs, or a tapers with long hair can effectively complement this head shape. It's best to steer clear of very low hairstyles like waves or a buzzcut, as they may not accentuate the desired features.\
Triangle-
For the triangle face shape, characterized by a wider forehead that narrows down to a sharper chin, certain hairstyles can enhance its features. Opting for a low-length hair taper, buzz cuts, or braids like cornrows or hanging braids can complement this face shape well. Additionally, beards such as a full beard or goatees can further balance the facial proportions.
Now that we got the bases of what hairstyle works best with your face shape, now it's time to understand how to ask for this haircut at the barbershop.
Understanding Barbershop Terms and How to Ask For It
Going to the barbershop can be exciting and terrifying at the same time. My first time walking into a barbershop, I had a picture to show the barber but I didn't know how to ask exactly how I wanted it so I came out feeling a bit better, but not feeling great because it wasn't true to my image. Here are some terms that you would need to know in the barbershop.
Edge-up: An edge-up is pivotal for achieving that sharp, polished look with your first haircut. It involves creating crisp angles along the hairline, providing a confidence boost with its fresh appearance and enhancing overall aesthetic appeal.
Taper: A taper involves shaving down the sides of your head and back without creating a complete fade. Unlike a fade, which gradually blends into your hair as it goes up, a taper maintains a distinct separation between the shaved areas and the rest of the hair. Tapers are an excellent choice for individuals with longer hair who desire a more masculine haircut without sacrificing their hair length.
A low-cut fade: Fades vary in perception, and it's crucial to communicate clearly with your barber about your preferences. What constitutes a low-cut fade for one person might be perceived as a high-cut fade by another. Discussing how low you want the fade and where you'd like it to stop is essential. The key point of differentiation is the crown of your head. In a low-cut fade, the fading stops at this crown point, resulting in a darker blend. By 'darker,' I mean the hair is shaved lower without complete shading, as illustrated in Image 1. Notice the subtle blending at the sides, resembling a gradual transition from shorter to longer hair. While in Image 3, his sides are "skint" or a skin-cut.
A high-cut fade: As mentioned in Point 3, a high-cut fade typically involves blending on the crown or even above it. This style often resembles military-type haircuts commonly seen on soldiers.
Front Tapers: A front taper involves trimming some hair above the hairline to enhance the visibility of the edge-up. Similar to regular tapers, front tapers are particularly flattering for individuals with longer hair and are often chosen by those sporting braided styles or locs.
Shape-up: A shape-up involves rounding or cleaning up the sides of the hair, particularly for individuals with afros or longer hair, such as those sporting flat-top styles. In the image provided, the barber has shaped the afro into a more spherical style.
Sponges: Some barbers offer the sponge hair technique in their shops, while others do not. The sponge hair style involves using a sponge, as shown in the picture, to create curl textures or define strands in your hair. This is achieved by moving the sponge in a circular motion on your head.
Conclusion
I hope this guide has provided you with valuable insights into the initial steps of getting the right haircut. Whether it's communicating your preferences to your barber or understanding which hairstyles suit you best, recognizing your needs as a black trans man or black transmasculine individual is crucial. I'm sharing this information because I know how important it is, and I want others to benefit from the knowledge I've gained on my own journey.
-Quinton
Sources:
Betterness, B. (2023, December 10). How to find the perfect hairstyle for your face for Black Men. YouTube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YG6S_qNY58U
The Good Barbers. (2022, August 16). Best haircut and Beard Shape for your face – your ultimate guide. https://www.thegoodbarbers.ch/post/best-haircut-and-beard-for-your-face